Project Log: Reaver Titan

[BlueRonin]

Well, the big boy arrived Wednesday, and I've been spending some time this weekend going through the parts and planning the build. This is definitely going to be a challenging one, but I'm psyched!

After doing an inventory I took over the kitchen and started cleaning up all the parts.



I usually soak Forgeworld kits in lukewarm water mixed with dishwater detergent for a minimum of 15min, then individually scrub each piece with an old, simple electric toothbrush. Then I rinse them thoroughly and let them air dry.

I was surprised to find it difficult to remove the greasy feel of the larger, smoother carapace pieces; which has made me a bit paranoid. I figure I'll give all the pieces a second wash (same method) once they are fully prepared in order to make sure (as well as remove all dust, residue from handling, etc). I've never had an issue with a kit after a single wash before- but this time I want to make sure.

The big task ahead of me is to sort out sub-assemblies, and for this I'm hoping to get some advice. The way I see it there is the legs, the hips, the torso and the head - but can the legs and hips be build more-or-less separately and added together as one works out the pose?

I am also curious about which order I should do these sub-assemblies in. I have followed the discussion on MoonFog's log about starting with the legs. My only issue there is that I want to mount my Reaver on a base (yeah, I know - I am a base fanatic) in order to give the the model a slightly more dynamic pose - as well as the fact I like the stability and 'personal space' afforded by a base on the tabletop.

Does it really make any difference if I begin with the torso? What are the thoughts and experiences of those of you who have done your own Reavers?

[Munkey Joe]

Red X Damn......


Oh well Gov computers have all the fireblocks and such.... Oh well it'll be here when i get off i suppose.

I wouldn't beleive that this would make too much of a difference, although Im a fan of the Biasi/armorcast titans... No sub assemblies needed!!

I will ask one of my buddies who also based his warhound, how he did it. I'll repost in a few days....

[mangozac]

I was just yesterday wondering "what's BlueRonin up to?". Now I know

I never realised the Reaver was made of so many parts! I reckon the assembly process should be pretty much the same as a Warhound and we've been discussing with Moonfog: start with the legs and go upwards from there. Do the torso as a separate piece.

Looking forward to pics of the build process!

[BlueRonin]

[Arkangel]

LEGS!!! Go check my photobucket buddy you'll see the pick of mine. I will get some picks up soon if I can of it broken down as i did for the Warhound posts.

Reason: Well the key to this bad boy is getting the waist level as the torso when built weighs a F$£$%%ng Ton!!! Plus the head won't sit right AND the two shin guards per leg are a bitch to fit otherwise. They are quite the pain to be fair. But once you have it all set and the waist is level the rest is pretty easy compaired to the Warhound build.
This is mainly due to the fact there isn't 400 pieces/pistons per TOE!!!

My Reaver breaks down into parts the same as my Warhound and this has all been done ready for painting. Even the legs are pinned so they come apart and the knee guards come off.

Hope this helps matey

[BlueRonin]

Okay, not a proper update but I have gotten started on this bad boy while I wait for the rest of the decals for my Marauder (man I'm itching to finally wrap up that project). Thanks Arkangel for your advice, I've started with the legs!

I have a question for Zac, really; based on yoru review I picked up a tube of Tamiya Putty and I'm using it on the Reaver. When you use it to fill in lines from mold slips - do you use the putty first, then file it all smooth - or do you file and shape a bit first before adding the putty, then go back for the final finish? Does it make any difference?

[mangozac]

First I use a chisel in line with the mould slip itself to remove the bulk of the "cliff". Then add putty - not too thick. Then sand it smooth using first 240 and then 800 grit paper. Sometimes it takes a second application of putty to get things perfect.

Make sense?

I'll try to remember to grab some pics while I'm cleaning up some of the SAW chassis parts...

[BlueRonin]

No, that makes perfect sense, thanks. I've been thinking about getting a small hobby chisel kit.

Any tips for sanding? I've been mixing sanding with filing, as I find ot tricky to apply pressure when sanding, as well as getting into gaps etc. However, it seems easy to damage parts with a file. Do you use any blocks etc. to make that job easier?

[mangozac]

[Dragonforge]

Be careful when sanding joints with putty on resin kits. One can be softer/harder than the other and sand different. For example if the putty is harder than the resin, while you might be sanding like crazy to sand down putty, the resin is sanding away easy and you end up with an uneven surface.

I always get wet dry paper and wet sand resin.. No dust that way and a smoother finish.

I prefer Magic Sculpt to fill joints as it sands very easy in my opinion.

Greenstuff/Kneedatite wet sands well but can be harder to sand than resin.

Best is not to over fill the joint if possible so you have very little to sand.

[BlueRonin]

Thank you for great input!

When you say wetsand, what to you mean in practice? Wetting the part, sandpaper, both, or sanding under water?

[mangozac]

Water everywhere. Dunk the part in it. Slosh it onto the paper. I even sometimes do it with the paper underwater. If you're going to get too hard core with it it's best to use a baking tray or something to collect all of the resin dust sludge

I usually try to do bulk wetsanding outside, however if just doing a small bit at my hobby desk I simply stick a little bit of water onto the paper and sand with that. That is usually using the paper on the bench and move the part technique.

[BlueRonin]

Again, thank you for the guidance! It is very useful! I've been slowly preparing the thighs, taking my time using your suggestions and trying to get into a rhythm with the work. It's definitely taking my skills yo the next level! Don't worry, you will not be hearing my usual excuses about only aiming for a cool game piece on this one! I do, however; have a self-imposed deadline the end of July. That's our third apocalypse game of the year!

I'll try to sort out some pictures this evening!

[BlueRonin]

Sorry, no pictures yet...

Another silly question, though; I find myself needed to add some more putty after sanding, usually because the putty has 'sunk in' and there is still an indentation. Is this somewhat common, or is it a result of too little chisleing, cutting and other prep work before applying putty?

[mangozac]

That's pretty common - lacquer based putty like that shrinks as it cures unlike two part products. It's often necessary to do a second coat of putty but try to do this coat much neater than the first so there's minimal sanding afterwards. You could probably chisel a little more too, however sometimes that's not too feasible as material needs to be added, not more taken away.