Resin Addict Forum

Yeah I'm sure it works, but I don't like the idea of having to rush to do the removal before the paint dries properly.

What about the hairspray and salt technique? Does that still need touch-dry paint?

I think I'm going to have to do some experimenting before I commit to my SAW model!

Do you still use the Johnsons Klear (or whatever the local equivalent of is) for protecting the base coat? I would assume something non-acrylic based would have to be used in SMTK's method otherwise the thinners would work through it also?

The theory is alternate water based with non-water based.

So if you undercoat with a spray can, coat with spray clear coat
If you use acrylics, coat with Future (pledge one-go, for us in OZ)

The idea is to protect each layer from the solvents of the next.

For weathering, you don't want to protect the layers underneath you you only cover after the weathering is done, e.g. to the acrylics layers with the salt technique.

On the salt technique, I find a heavy hand on top coats over the salt will result in raised areas where the salt comes off, resulting in a good rusting paint effect.

Just my 2c.

So what is protecting the metal/rust coloured base coats? Do you simply have to be careful not to scrub too hard?

Trying to work out what to do with that 'clean' space on the nose

I though maybe an ELH decal but now I'm pretty much set on grinding in a shell deflection.

The grinding being unreversible would it be a mistake?

Why not both? The deflection over part of the decal would look great IMO.

I have to say that when I first saw the casts I was worried that the model was very bland looking because it lacked a lot of fine details. Your painting certainly corrects that to a massive degree (and I really love how it's turning out), but I can't help but feel like the model could be improved even further if you were to scribe in panel lines and maybe even aviation style riveting. It's those kind of things that make a sci-fi model feel so much more realistic.

Please don't take that the wrong way - I love what you're doing - I just love to see people take their hobby that extra step

I think both would start too look busy.

No offensive taken (racing drive excuses incoming). The lack of scribing is down to the fact I suck at it all I get is wonky lines, bloody fingers and a scratchy mess to fill/swear at lol There a few areas I know I'm weak in those being; scribing, detail airbrush work and washes. I haven't had the 'ah ha that's how it works' moment with any of those. I have a thing for keeping knick-knacks and gimmicks to a minimum

This is my 3rd scratch build the learning curve on each has leapt each time. My Thor was a simple boxy design with stuck on plates, the hunchback was the first cast model, this osiris was the first use of putty and pressure casting. On the osiris build I was convinced to rescale to 1/60 so I just want to wrap it up for the sake of it so I could move on.

Both the HB and Osiris are going to be rescaled using laser cutout parts with some lasered scribing and will be joined by an Awesome, highlander and Catapult.

I've also pull apart my old armorcast Atlas which had loads of cool design features which I'm planing on incorporating in my models. Finally on the cards is a armorcast atlas > mechwarrior online atlas bolt on conversion (replacing the head, hands, forearms, feet, Autocannon and hips)

Finshed painted model thread up here: viewtopic.php?f=18&t=598

OT again
Using the acrylic paint thinners method you need only rub gently and change Q-tips once the paint starts to clog it up. I don't like to using force on models lead to snapped parts

I tend use 2 passes once to get the right look then 2nd time to lift off the some of the cloudy wash left by the first pass.

I also use Acrylic thinner and a Q-tip like an eraser if I make a mistake.

Oh I too missed Geomod's post!

My understanding was that the major benefit of the salt technique was the 3D effect it had, making it loop more like the paint had flaked/chipped off. The best bet is probably a combination of techniques: use the salt method for general paint degradation and use SMTK's thinners method for places where the paint has worn due to rubbing.

This... is ... too... sexy...


Don't mean to be that guy... but when are you going to do a Dire Wolf (Daishi) [http://www.sarna.net/wiki/Dire_Wolf_(Daishi)] I don't know why, but that has been my favorite mech throughout the ages