Surface Filler

[factor40]

I seem to remember someone here on RA mentioning a product they use to smooth out a surface before sanding. Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what that may be?

[mangozac]

What kind of surface? What kind of material? The only thing I can think of is some primer spray like Mr Surfacer.

I just had a look at your website and it looks like you're up to some interesting stuff. Have you had a read of Paulsons thread on working through 3D stuff?

[factor40]

[Lane]

I have seen two methods described in another group.

One uses Mr. Surfacer and multiple steps of sanding. They warn that a single coat will not eliminate the steps but multiple coats can obliterate detail. If I understood correctly you spray then sand just enough to take off the corners of the steps. Then you re-spray and repeat ending up with a surface that is midway between the steps. It also mentions Mr. Surfacer is available in a brush on primer.

The other is described here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/scificonc ... essage/437

[mangozac]

Based on what I've seen on his website though, Factor40 is looking to clean up 3D printed figures - a subject that does not lend itself well to sanding.

I'm thinking maybe this: using Mr Surfacer 500 and Mr Colour Levelling Thinner (thinners that contain a retarder) you might be able to brush on and achieve a very smooth coat. You'd have to check compatibility with the lacquer thinners and the 3D printed part though.

I know Paulson likes to make casts of the 3D prints and then do cleanup on them - my understanding is that it's often easier to work with the resin than with the printed materials.

[Lane]

Both of the processes I mentioned were specifically for cleaning up 3D prints.

The second one is from the owner of Dream Forge Games and I suspect he used it on this model
http://dreamforge-games.blogspot.com/20 ... ounce.html

[mangozac]

What I meant is that I didn't think the processes would be suitable on a figure where there really aren't enough flat surfaces to enable sanding down of the steps. Larger and more mechanical parts (a la the Dreamforge Leviathins) woould probably work fine.

[factor40]

[paulson games]

When I talked with Mark from dreamforge he said he primes and fine grit sands stuff many many times, at least 5+ times. Also mentioned that Mr. Surfacer doesn't hold up particuarly well and wears off easily as the printed parts has a very differant surface quality than resin or plastic.

If you have an airbrush I would suggest using a thinned down enamel paint like one of the testors brand paints, just make sure it's a dull coat (I'd stick with their military line) Dillute it with some thinner to get it nice and thin and apply it in very light layers. Scape with a hobby knife and sand with very fine grit paper 200+ grit. Then you'll need to reapply the primer layer and repeat until you are happy.

For getting into rounded areas wrap the sand paper around a toothpick, bamboo skewer, brush handle etc. You can also try the buffer tool on a dremmel if you are very careful.

As the resin is easier to see and work with I cast copies first in grey resin then started cleaning as it's much easier to see the fine details on. The off white or blue colors that most of the stuff is printed in can be difficult to see details on and because it's somewhat transparent sometimes you can see marks and bubbles that appear on teh surface even though they are burried udnerneath. The resin provides a non reflective medium to work with and is softer which is why I went with that option.

Just make sure you use a soild mold release to keep the parts from binding, the normal spray on stuff won't work. I used the rubber to rubber seperator that is normally used when making a 2 part mold. (micromark brand) Even then it was kind difficult to remove, as you are doing figures your results may vary so test on the smallest/cheapest part first just in case.

Prior to casting you might want to do a bit of clean up with the hobby knife to get rid of the major ridges and save the fine work until the resin cast that way if can help stop the part from sticking in the mold as strongly.

[factor40]

Cool, thank you sir