Gap Filling w/ Super Glue & Baking Soda

[Wolfs16]

So I found this a while ago and thought I'd give it a try.


The result was okay. It certainty did fill the gaps, but it left them a bit unevenly filled (little holes here and there). I'll have to post pictures of the Devilfish I tried it on.

But has anyone else used this before? Would you recommend it to anyone or no? Any simple gap filling suggestions?

[mangozac]

I'm sorry, I wasn't informed that there was something wrong with putty....

Could you please take a nice macro pic of your attempt? I wonder what the long term stability of it is like? I would imagine the texture will still be a little grainy, even after filing. I personally wouldn't bother with it and just use Milliput standard grade - I'm a big fan of the stuff and these days use it almost exclusively on my walker project. In fact just the other day I ripped off a big section of Magic Sculpt that hadn't cured properly (it's so hard to mix that stuff well and tell when it is mixed) and replaced it with Milliput.

In fact here's what I'd do on that Eldar tank he was working with:
1. Mix up some milliput and roughly fill the panel lines, ensuring that the milliput protrudes out the top of the panel.
2. Use a wet sculpting tool to smooth the Milliput down so it's almost flush with the surface (but still protruding a little).
3. Wait for the milliput to set.
4. Use my scalpel in a scraping motion to carve the protruding milliput flush with the panel. This is quick and easy.
5. A quick sand with some 240 grit then 800 grit sandpaper.
6. Done! Once painted the seams will not be detectable.

I believe Warhound has been discussing putties with some big names in the sculpting business and is planning to share what he has found with us soon.

[paulson games]

Baking soda will likely soften over time as it'll absorb moisture, which might lead to crumbling or lumps forming. Might be avoided if the superglue seals it, not sure why regular tried and true putty wouldn't be the best option. Don't buy the GW stuff it's too expensive, generic greenstuff or miliput will get you about 3 times as much for the same price as GW.

Privateer press's grey stuff also works great and isn't to expensive.

[CMDante]

Personally I wouldn't recommend baking soda for this purpose. As mangozac says, what's wrong with putty?!

Depending on the size of the gap there are a few options available:

Squadron Green Putty - "Paintable" putty that comes in an artists oil paint like tube, good for quick, small gap filling due to it's relatively quick drying time. Too thin for more than seam line (etc) style filling.

Tamayia Filler - Similar to above. For filling gaps in plastic kits, comes in a small toothpaste style tube and is relatively cheap. Good for filling small gaps and join lines in plastics as it is kind of like a thick polycement (bonds with plastic in a similar "melting" way). Can be filed smooth with some fine grit wet/dry for seamless finish.

Milliput - Can be used like a regular putty, or thinned into a wash by mixing with water for tiny gap filling (seam lines, putty join lines, imperfections in metal/plastic/resin etc). Requires sanding for smooth finish (1200 grit wet/dry).

These are probably the best ones to use for gap filling, especially on vehicles. Mainly because they sand better than putties such as GS and BS so you can get a better, smoother finish.

Cheers,

Dante

[Xeones]

I agree with CMDante about the Tamayia filler and the Milliput. I prefer Tamayia's product for simple gap filling if you plan to just sand things smooth afterword. But I suggest milliput larger gaps and for for areas where you might be likely to scribe panel lines or other similar work. Tamayia's product is more brittle when cured than Milliput and has a tendency to flake if you try to shape it after it dries.

[Wolfs16]

When I get home from my travels I'll lost a picture of the results, as I think it might be helpful to see the results.

Your suggestions are all excellent and I will be purchasing some Milliput when I get back!

[freakinacage]