SSB's General Log

[Munkey Joe]

[Anvils Hammer]

No worries!!

I learned most of this the hard way and If id not found this forum i would still be learning a lot of stuff the hard way, so glad to be of assistance!

AH

[SSB]

Hello again ! Thanks (by the thousand !)

Here is the mould I project !
After thouroughtly reading you multiple advices !



What do you think ? !

[mangozac]

Good, but the mould box is WAY bigger than it needs to be! I would make the short sides half as wide.

You will probably get a bit of bubbling at the flat bottom of the "earth" around the ball on the left. It's on the bottom so isn't a big deal, but you might need to widen the sprue channel to it. That can simply be cut into the mould with a knife later if need be.

[SSB]

I have reduced the size of the box.

I will cut into the silicone later on to widen the sprue channel !

Tomorrow I'll do the Silicone mold (too late for my neighbours to endure my Air Compressor !)

Any last advice ?

[mangozac]

[paulson games]

Give the parts and the inside of the box a good spray of mold release, it will definately help when it comes to demolding the original parts and removing the mold from the box.

When you go to cast the stuff make sure you dust it with talc or baby powder and give it plenty of squeezing so that the air can escape, as Zac suggested you might want to make a slightly larger channel for the flat bottomed ball. The other thing you can do is move the channel closer to one end and tilt the part slightly so that the air all goes to the high point where the sprue is attached.

Maybe something like this

[Anvils Hammer]

if its not to late, position the ball exactly like Paulson showed!!

Also as others have said, the box is way to big.. I generally leave about five or ten millimeters of silicone between the part and the mold wall.

AH

[SSB]

Modification done !
Thanks a lot !

I haven't had time to cast these days.
Tomorrow I hope !

[SSB]

- FLASH QUESTION -

I have received Shapeway 3D models made of super fine frosted detail material.
There is a lot of residue in the small details.

What is it made of ? (greasy material it seems)
How do you clean it of ?
Brush + white spirit ? (acetone ? Alcool ?)

I'll post photos in the near future !

[Fleafa]

NOT ACETONE!
I would steer away from MOST solvents. Maybe alcohol or water. I've used soapy water and a toothbrush to good effect. Also, toothpicks or a similar metal tool.

[SSB]

Ok !
No solvents...

The website says Frosted Ultra Detail resists up to 80°C Has it been verified by one of you ?

I have to mold these models with a high T° Silicone for rotary casting at a foundry.
When he creates the molds, he told me the T° can rise up to 130°C.
Will the frosted ultra detail material resist this heat ?

[Fleafa]

I highly doubt it. Consider wax printing for lost-wax cast masters if you need to resist that sort of temperature. Zack at Protowax is a very nice guy. Just got some prints from him which I will share soon.

[SSB]

[SSB]

I re-post this in my log.
Lasts months have been subject to creation with a 3D artist.
We created trophies for my blood bowl league.

Next task will be to mold them and create heat resistant copies (Smooth on task 8 resin, <130°C) that will go to a foundry, where the founder will mold them in heated (130°C) silicon to create centrifugated pewter copies !

I have also bought a new system. The one I did conceive earlier was not satisfying my needs. I'll show photos in the future.

Base 1 and chocolate top (assembled approx 28mm high)


Base 2 and shield 1 (assembled approx 28mm high)


Base 2 and shield 2 (assembled approx 28mm high)


Base 2 and shield 3 (assembled approx 28mm high)


Lutèce trophy (approx 28mm high)